Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always defined its soul: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
