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When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. But, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.